Yako Ressha

Taking its name from the night trains that once departed Ueno Station, Yako Ressha traces its roots to serving drinks to travelers on those late-running lines. Tucked along a street beneath the JR railway viaduct, a noren curtain opens into an intimate izakaya oriented around its counter.

The menu gathers regional sakes from across Japan alongside thoughtful snacks tailored for drinking. A signature order is the smoked mackerel, thick and moist, yielding a deep, aromatic smokiness as you chew. Other focused plates include shiokara-cured bonito innards tossed with julienned myoga ginger, horse sashimi, and fragrant half-dried silver-stripe round herring. When temperatures drop, a personal hot pot of simmered tofu with blowfish fillets, napa cabbage, mizuna greens, and mushrooms provides comforting warmth, brightened by a citrusy ponzu.

The sake selection spans a broad range, with diners noting bottles such as cloudy nigori alongside clearer brews, encouraging pairings tailored to the food. Western rock music plays through the rustic space, making the counter an easy fit whether stopping by alone for a quiet glass or slipping in for a second stop after exploring the neighborhood.